Cove Rock

Spent another week at Ocean View and a couple more visits to The Shed proved how friendly the locals are.  Alan runs a hardware store in Morgan Bay and maintains that his pension pays for one beer and the store pays for the rest.  Fed up with potholes some of the local businessmen started a fund and used it to at least fill some of the craters but were told very sternly by the mayor that they couldn't do that anymore as they were taking jobs away from disadvantaged people - only in SA. Had been having problems with a whingeing back and asked if there was a local physio and was promptly dragged over to a table and introduced to Norma who said come by at 9:30 tomorrow.  Talking while she pulverised my back, it turned out we're both from Bulawayo and her father ran a pharmacy there and I used to sell to him when I worked as a drug-peddlar for CAPS.  We were also at Wits around the same time - small world.

During my stay the wind was almost constant but swung 180 degrees at the drop of a hat.  I guess driving past this on my way there should have given me a heads up.

I was offered a campsite for R75 a night or this rather unusual "cottage" for R100.  It consisted of two rondavels with a central bathroom and as Bruce, the manager, put it the boss lost his mind and built a lounge from the roof down!  It has yet to be completed but the cows enjoyed the shelter when it rained.

Nice to live somewhere other than the van for a while but still used the Beast as a lounge and set up this very sophisticated dish arrangement as a building was blocking the signal from my normal mount on the jockey wheel.  A pick handle, a tie down, a large brick, a log and a couple of tent pegs - eat your heart out McGyver.

Coming back from Kei Mouth one day suddenly noticed these stunning erythrinas which appear to have flowered overnight - thought it might make a heck of a puzzle.

As there had been rain, the 8 k's of dirt back to the main road turned the bakkie brown so on a shopping trip to Bonza Bay I spotted a car wash and paid R65 for a wash and go - exorbitant as the previous highest was R40.  Unfortunately while I was in town the clouds dumped another 30 mm on the road -guess what colour the bakkie was when I got home.  I'd been past this building a few times and muttered about the wasteful government spending, what the heck do they need all those loos for?  Then I noticed the sign, "Amatola Sanitation Dept.", I imagine this is the shit-house showroom, pick your privvy.

The day dawned when I had to leave and of course the weather decided to do the dirty and down came the rain for most of the night.  I had deliberately stayed an extra two nights to ensure that Bruce's helpers were on hand if the Beast decided not to move.  When I came to hitch, the back wheel of the bakkie was in a hole and the front against a rock.  I used the movers to roll her forward a bit, hitched, engaged the diff lock and let rip.  Almost made 10 m before we came to a halt slipping wildly.  Went in search of help and of course only one of three labourers had pitched, so had a go with two pushers but the back wheels just dug in.  Unhitch again, engage movers and with three of us busting a gut we got her onto the level - whew.

The 70 k's to Cove Rock were a doddle even though they involved going through the city centre but it was all worthwhile for this view, one side..........

 

...and the other.  The birdlife here is amazing, five heron, three kingfisher and three duck species plus about 50 others so far.  Was serenaded by a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls last night which took me straight back to 28 B.

Have often heard of the Amatola Mountains but never been so as they were just up the road near Stutterheim, I booked into the Manderson Hotel for a couple of nights which included the luxury of not having to feed myself.  First time ever that I've been outnumbered 50 to 1 by black guests - appears surrounding municipalities are very generous when it comes to conferences.  Saw the sunrise for the first time in a while.....

 .....then toddled off to do some atlassing in the nearby Khologha Forest, mainly in search of Cape Parrots.  Not a squawk anywhere but lots of other goodies along the board-walk....

 ....and forest trails.  Some fair sized yellow-woods still grace this patch, you may spot my back pack on the creeper next to the tree to give it some scale.

And of  lots of streams of DRINKABLE water and Mountain Wagtails, which refused to oblige me with a pic.

You just can't keep a good tree down.

About 3 k's in I glimpsed movement on a rock and there sat one of my favourites, a White-starred Robin who was totally unconcerned with my presence and though I tried I just could not get the camera to focus on him (no it's not my pic), so I just sat and watched.  Next in view a Bush Blackcap, then Olive Woodpecker and finally a Chorister - magic.

On the way back to the hotel I bumped into a a pair of these beauties, which, though I've heard them regularly, was the first time I'd seen them on this trip - Red-necked Spurfowl and it IS my pic.

While lying in bed the other morning doing the lazy man's birding (listening) a thought popped into my head which is probably a quote from someone but nevertheless I like it - I now feel that I am living the dream rather than dreaming the life, and though it's lonely it is also fun.

Ocean View

Made it, but it wasn't fun.  Left Southbroom on the 4th August and made it to Port St Johns, no sweat apart from the last 1.5 k's which were typical Transkei. Pulled in at Cremorne where I'd stayed once before with Jo. We returned from a drive to find the tent flattened by the wind and all the poles bent but they were good enough to let us use one of their fishermen's cottages.  This time they gave me the "best" site and it was impressive as you can see.

Right on the bank of the Mzimvubu River with it's own braai and deck - very spoiled.

This view towards the sea...........

.....................and this upriver.

So I was feeling pretty good when I set out the next day, until I hit the first stop/go.  I had tried to find out about the road from Port St Johns to Mthatha but could only get directions not conditions - me and computers.  Two hours to do 70 k's and some of the most appalling deviations ever, then a full on traffic jam going into the metropolis, by the time I was the hell out of there I was gently steaming.  I arrived at Ocean View and was greeted by chaos, Eskom had just pitched, shut off the electricity and sealed the box as the bill hadn't been paid and Bruce was ready to resign.  The "seal" was just tape so he cut it off and switched the power back on then proceeded to have a mighty row with the boss.  I sloped off to the cottage and was trying to figure out where to put the van when I realised I was going down-hill on kikuyu - damn.  Tried to reverse to no avail, used the diff lock, no dice and no room to turn. So decided to heck with it let's have a snooze and I'll see if I can rustle up some help later.  Long story short I eventually told them I'd go into East London and hire a 4x4 in the morning.  Unhitched and just for a laugh tried the "movers" which actually did shift the Beast a little way but then the wheels started slipping but I was sure that with a bit of muscle we might manage, so next morning Bruce and his two assistants rolled up and after much huffing and puffing got her back on levelish ground.  So now I'm sleeping and eating in the cottage but as there are no cupboards all my clothes remain in the van - nice change though. 

On my last visit I had a braai dinner at a place called the Shed and on Friday trundled down and met quite a few of the guys that I'd met the last time - including the owner Brent.  R60 for a 300 g steak, with salads and vetkoek - can't complain. When I sat down and started tackling the steak with an ordinary knife one wag shouted to Brent that I must have a lot of faith in his meat.

Two other retirees, Peter and Alan started regaling me with bowling stories and said I really ought to come along and have a game - there are two clubs, one in Kei Mouth and the other in Morgan Bay so they play 4 times a week.  I agreed to go the next day but as I had a dose of the squirts didn't fancy the idea of bending down as I might deliver something more than a bowl.  I did watch for an hour but am not too sure if it's for me, the postures that some of them get into would keep me in hysterics.

As Trennery's Hotel is only 17 k's from Kei Mouth, I thought a couple of nights there might be fun so booked. To get there requires an interesting trip.......

.....and of course I was immediately accosted by some of the local ladies who together with luggage must have added half a ton.  So the Transkei taxi trundled off and virtually every time someone got off someone else would climb on.  Finally arrived at the hotel and was very pleasantly surprised.

Kept on getting lost in the bed.

Not as beautiful as some parts of the wild coast.

But a huge lagoon and a long winding gorge made this an ideal option, blasted thing had drainage holes that didn't drain anything but let gallons of water in and it was distinctly chilly around the nether regions.

Slowly wended my way back with the inevitable passenger and took this pic of the Kei Mouth coming down the hill back to the ferry.  Arriving at the cottage I went to put something in the fridge only to be met by the most disgusting smell and to my horror saw it was off.  I had tried to tell the maid NOT to switch it off and even showed her the contents of the freezer but I guess wires got crossed as she doesn't speak a word of English.  Opening the freezer I found it to be empty and wondered where she had put the contents.  Questioning her later I only got blank looks and finally ascertained that she had gaily taken about R300 worth of meat and then switched it off. - guess who's not getting a tip.