The search for the next stop

Decided that there was nowhere in the old Transkei that a) I could get the beast to and b) that I really wanted to go, so settledon Kei Mouth and Morgan Bay.  A recce was required so wanting to treat myself I booked for an overnight in Mazeppa Bay Hotel and a cottage at a place called Ocean View near Kei Mouth.  I left here at 09h30 and arrived in Mazeppa, which is approximately 400 k,s away at 18h30 - 9 freaking hours later.

First mistake was going through Bizana as it is basically limited to 60 and 80 kph sections all the way -so much of people.  Second mistake was heading for the N2 and not direct to Mthatha via Port St Johns as you end up going backwards and have to fight your way through all the grotty little towns that litter the route.  It took 3 hours to get to Mout Ayliffe where I stopped for half an hour for lunch and admired this view across the road.

Thereafter things just went downhill.  It took at least an hour to get from one side of Mthatha to the other and boy if SA ever needs an enema thats where they'll start.  The pavements in all those towns are so packed with traders that everyone walks in the road, and of course you just park wherever and to hell with the traffic.  The instructions I had for the hotel said there was a marked turn-off 8 k's from Butterworth, so I get there - no sign, turn round and all the way back to Dutywa - no sign.  Finally found someone who had even heard of Mazeppa, lots of detailed instructions and I still managed to miss it - if it was there at all.  5 k's from Butterworth I hit a backup from the only traffic light in town and we creep down the hill -which gives me time to check a map and I see you can get there through Kentani but I pull into a garage to check.  The Indian fellow goes into excruciating detail and says I must turn left at the Engen garage in Kentani - I missed the garage, only had one pump.  Came to the end of town turned round found the garage but the road looks like it heads straight into the "suburbs".  Ask and once again get explicit details, left at Y, right at T, down Cat's Pass and now it's getting dark.  That all went superbly till the bottom of the pass where there is another Y - they just don't seem to do signs down there.  The left fork has just been made and looks like a rugby field, I take the right but decide to ask and stop a passing bakkie no this is the right road just follow it to the end - and can you give my mate a lift, sure if he's willing to get on the back all my stuff's in front.  An hour later I drop him off, how far?  Two k's he assures me, 4 k's later I feel like I trapped in Hotel California and the nightmare is never going to stop - but it finally does - and I'm the only guest.  

Several stiff shots later i have a splendid solitary meal, then join the only other person in the massive dining room, the receptionist a very pleasant Rhodesian lady who has only been there a few days.  By 8pm I'm out of it and off to bed - sans receptionist unfortunately - but all is forgiven in the morning when I awaken to this.....

For hhat earthly reason do cows visit the beach?  There's also a little island dotted with fishermen, none of whom are Xhosa as they are apparently so scared of the sea they won't go near it, hence the "wild" in Wild Coast.

an

Beautiful spot but stay a week or two.  The rest of the journey was a doddle and when I met Bruce, a self confessed recovering alcoholic chef turned farmer my mind was made up pretty quickly as the campsite on the farm was unlikely to have any guests for the duration and my exercise will be in the form of helping him clear aliens.  He manages the place which belonged to a German couple and when the husband died the workers conned the old duck that they were seeing to everything but of course it all just gradually went to hell in a hand-basket.  One thing that was now very clear was that there was no way in hell that I was coming down the N2 so I booked an overnight in a delightful stone and thatch cottage on a farm called The Guardians, named after this feature.

This enabled me to check the R56 through the Eastern Cape highlands which apart from a few potholes is stiil in good nick and a far preferable option.  Only thing is I'm going to need a heater and long-johns.  All sorts of reasons have made me stay here another month which will give me plenty of time to plan the route.

Have spent some time in Mpenjati Reserve which is not only a delight but close and of course there is another attraction..........

Have only encountered one other dirty old man and as there are no nets and no lifesavers, there doesn't seem to be a huge rush.  But it is a beautiful spot.