The Great Trek

In the last blog I went on about a butterfly being a lifer - turns out it wasn't.  I sent a pic to Steve Woodhall, he came back with three possibilities and the only way to differentiate is to examine their genitals.  Promised to get porno shots next time.  Had to go into Cape Town to pick up a door seal for the fridge and when I arrived back the inside of the Beast was at 43 C.  The time came to take leave of Robertson and head across the forbidding Karoo.  Had to take a parting shot.

Worcester to Touwsrivier is all wine country and as in all other vinyards I'd seen the guys doing the spraying have absolutely no protection whatsoever.  Shudder to think what it does to them after a few years exposure.

Heading for a three night stay in the Karoo National Park the effects of the drought were really apparent as were other things.  The government instituted a charge for plastic grocery bags which was supposed to reduce litter.  Unfortunately the people it was aimed at are the ones who create the biggest problem.  I've seen the 'disadvantaged' buying a loaf of bread and paying another 40 cents for a bag even though it's already in plastic.  Consequently the Karoo now has plastic trees and bushes, particularly around the lay-bys.  On the upside there were any number of brand new "windpompe" which were always a trademark of the area but they began disappearing many years back in favour of solar pumps.

For the first time in many hundreds of years lions may be heard in the Karoo as they were recently re-introduced to the Park.  Unfortunately SANParks decided to ensure the safety of the guests and whacked a dirty great electric fence around the whole camp.  To keep the farmers happy, ditto the Park but needless to say one of the males decided to go walk-about and it took them 9 days to locate him.  As the trackers pointed out this was a baie slim kat (clever kitty).  As in the Kruger there are places where you may leave your vehicle as long as you remain in the "designated area".  Quite how they train the lions not to enter these areas is the burning question as there are no fences around them.  One of them, at the top of Klipspringer Pass, allows a view of a road worthy of the Bain's but built many years after their demise.

There are many different types of roof tent but the one my neighbours' had was of the clam-shell variety and watching them fighting with it provided a few quiet sniggers.  They were at least my vintage and had to use a rope and a walking stick to prise it to open and thereafter rigging the tent resulted in enough grunting and groaning to do a porno movie proud.

I've been telling anyone who will listen that raptors in general are in dire trouble and this park tended to confirm it.  With supposedly the highest concentration of Verreaux's Eagles in RSA, nary a one was spotted in three days.  In fact the only birds of prey seen were these two Pale Chanting Goshawks or PCG's as they're known in the trade.

Most of the Park was desperately dry and nearby Barkley East's water supply dam has been dry for 18 months.  Which doesn't stop park staff watering the camp sites - even those with no grass - during the hottest part of the day.  I watched one sprinkler, which was mainly watering the road, and by the time it had completed a full rotation the ground was dry again.  In fact the whole park was desperately dry with very little in the way of game.

While trying to get a pic of a Fairy Flycatcher, which are hyperactive at the best of times, this dear little Pririt Batis landed not more than a meter away and said "Me, me, me............."  The call is extraordinary with up to 60 descending peeps - must breathe through their ears.

Currently reading a book by Barrie Humphries or Dame Edna.  Though fictional, it's probably based on personal experience but I loved his description of a woman's surgically enhanced lips.  "They were so big she could have applauded loudly with them.  How she managed to smoke a cigarette was beyond me, it was the equivalent of picking up a string of spaghetti with a boxing glove".

My final night here was spent having a very pleasant dinner in the restaurant and the choice of music was..................interesting.  An instrumental version of It might as well be spring, originally sung by Doris Day or some such, came on and I could remember all the lyrics, including the line, "And I feel so gay in a melancholy way", which now has a totally different connotation.  The song was popular over 50 years ago and I can't remember what I had for breakfast - astounding.

Time to move on over more of the vast Karoo to Gariep Dam.  Of interest on the way was the road gang cutting grass on the verges - the fact that it hasn't rained here for years didn't seem to deter them.  A group of koppies named the Three Sisters is very typical of this part of the Karoo.  Even though the dam is only 50% full, it still covers a massive area and the Forever Resort perched on the banks is rather special.  Their luxury campsites each have a toilet/shower/kitchen block, a perk I hadn't enjoyed since Cederberg.  There was a flower festival going on when I arrived and the second generation hippies on the next site were a bit much, but fortunately were gone the following day.

This is one of the only hydroelectic generators in RSA but the main purpose of the dam, completed in the 70's, is downstream irrigation.  The village built for the 'privileged' construction crew, up on a hill overlooking the dam, still boasts some charming houses

Hot weather necessitated a dip in a huge pool and the presence of a pair of White-throated Swallows ensured a return trip with camera and sundowners, to get the perfect photo opportunity.  They were nesting under a nearby gazebo but thought the pool steps made a handy perch.

The purpose of this wild, cross country gallop - I mean 1200 k's in a week is more than I did all year when I started - was to meet up with my darling cousin Sue and her mildly eccentric husband Giles.  My original plan was to go up the West Coast and turn right at Springbok which would have meant I'd be in the vicinity of Kimberly in early November.  They had already told me they were collecting one of those trailers that fold out into a two-star hotel from Paarl, and were planning a visit to Mokala.  As I'd been there before, I knew there was no ways I could get Beast to campsite so decided to slum it in the lodge at Mosu.  This involved leaving the van at Broadwaters, a beautiful spot on the banks of the Vaal River near Douglas.  When planning the route I ill-advisedly used Google maps which finds the shortest, not necessarily the best way between two points.  So when I left Gariep, I traveled 50 k's in the wrong direction only to be confronted with the prospect of 90 k's of dirt.  No thank you, turn around and now a 300 k trip turns into 500.  Fortunately I had a night to recover before doing the 170 k's, the long way round but ON TAR to get to Mokala.  On my way to their camp I met a curious Red Hartebeest..............

...........and a bunch of Springbok.  It's noticeable that a large number of local, affluent families have an adopted black child, seems a similar thing happens here.  Although this is only an abbereation of the norm, it is indicative of Mokala's origins as a hunting farm because the black phase is rare and was selectively bred to obtain a higher price.  Consequently they are far more common here then anywhere else I've been.

As Giles commented, my timing was perfect, they were just cracking out sundowners as I pulled up.  See what I mean about the hotel.

Noticing a flurry of movement while enjoying a beverage, Giles then pointed me in the direction of these two who were engaged in a fierce confrontation.  Flashing orange bellies and blue dewlaps it was 'n titaniese stryd or Titanic battle of note, unfortunately my reptiles book was ditched some time ago so couldn't identify them, some sort of agama I imagine.

The camp is built next to a waterhole which contained a couple of puddles of borehole water pumped from a nearby well and the steady stream of visitors included a Grey Rheebok, something not often seen anywhere but really surprising in this drought stricken area.

While at Broadlands the previous night I noticed this monster but was so exhausted that I didn't investigate, so when I arrived and found it parked next to Sue and Giles, eyebrows were raised. Turns out it belongs to friends of theirs, Rob and Debbie and the fact that he owns 10 farms in and around Clarens probably goes some way to explaining the magnitude of the thing.  You'd get a pretty luxurious house for the same price I'd imagine.

Have to have the ag shame - a Ground Squirrel doing the cute thing.

SANParks have had their cheque-books out since Jo and I were here and have more than doubled the size by buying the adjacent property which was also a hunting farm so there are now three camps.  On the way to visit, I noticed these streaks and stopped to get a shot, which I couldn't manage through the windscreen so...........  Busted, I was out of the car and didn't even hear them coming and the next thing was a couple of very angry rangers in my face and it took a lot of "Very sorry sir's" to get them out of it.  There was obviously a lot of moisture in the upper atmosphere which meant every passing plane left it's mark.

Always a favourite, a Meerkat - I'm telling you guys there's something that-a-way.

The Lilydale Lodge is up on a cliff overlooking the Riet River and the surrounding area is so different to Mokala you'd think you'd moved country - shades of Serengeti

A Wartamatic lawnmower............

...........and game appeared more abundant with fairly large herds of Black Wildebeest...........

................and a magnificent Gemsbok.  Looks like a return visit will be necessary, preferably after a bit of rain.