Left Aldam and headed for Parys on the banks of the Vaal River. The Dimalachite Resort is about 10 k's from town and as I was only over-nighting I didn't even unhitch so never got to explore what looks like a very quaint town. I shall return. Dimalachite? Their logo features a pair of matching kingfishers so go figure.
Extremely hot weather required something chilly - ah these are a few of my favoutie things..........
............while watching a Little Egret catching it's supper.
Ever come across a fully clothed toilet? With matching curtains nogal.
Next day it was off to Boksburg just up the road and some serious PT moving everything from Beast to cottage. Even had my own personal car guard - thanks Pete. Later put the Beast to bed in a huge warehouse and as access was dodgy we really impressed them with my oversized R/C toy. Very shortly thereafter and I boarded a plane for Windhoek for my birthday birding treat. Collected a bakkie, over-nighted at a B&B then headed for Ondangwa, about 600 km north. About 30 k's from Tsumeb, think middleof nowhere, I came across this sign for the Jungle Gym Junction and wondered why venture capitalists weren't bashing down the doors. Have to commend their optimism.
Was a little sceptical when the directions led me to a kraal 35 k's from Ondangwa but Ongula Lodge turned out to be a special cultural experience. Financed by some lady from Windhoek it's is run as a community project and is superbly furnished with repurposed 200 L barrels. The headboard, sides of the tables and cupboard all feature the tops while the veranda of the main building is roofed with the flattened sides. If you happen to clout the headboard when turning over, you think you're in the middle of a Jamaican steel drum band.
And there in the distance, huge Borassis Palms which transported me straight back to Etosha where Jo first met them and loved their stately appearance.
There's a central bar, lounge, dining area and five huts surrounded by meticulously hoed and raked sand. The dinner was a delight, with the courses being introduced by Chef Nandi, I guessed he wouldn't be too chuffed to be told that he shared a name with Shaka's mother. All ingredients were local and inevitably included mopani worms, fortunately dried and served with a dip which are manageable as they really don't have much taste at all. The fresh, gooey ones are heave inducing. The other thing used extensively is mahongo or millet, which was gritty and quite challenging for ancient gnashers.
There is a huge flood plain surrounding Ondangwa which extends over 200 km west and is fairly densely populated, so the road is liberally smothered with 60kph zones. Massive pain but the locals just ignore them which probably contributes to Namibia having the highest accident rate in the world. Once near Ruacana though, the numbers drop. The whole area was extremely dry as there has also been a drought for the last two years and birds were virtually non-existant. Saw a single raptor in seven days and though there were plenty of dead animals not one vulture probably all been converted into muti. The Cunene River valley suddenly appears and reminded me of the Zambezi valley on a smaller scale. A large hydro-electric project is fed by the Ruacana Dam, just a few hundred metres upstream from the falls, which are dry for most of the year as the water is diverted through the generators.
My destination, Kunene River Lodge required negotiating some farly rough dirt road but I really thought I'd been promoted to royalty when confronted with this.
The first wildlife came in the form of this handsome couple, Orange-headed Agamas. Males are highly territorial and maintain their patch with a lot of bobbing and gaping.
Next morning a trundle down river brought home exactly how quiet everything was, my list of possibles diminished fast.
However a shady tributary turned up Bare-cheeked Babbler, second lifer and..........
..........Grey-headed Kingfisher, not a lifer but one of those seen so rarely they seem like one.
I investigated a chittering noise, that I hoped would reveal something exotic - it turned out to be an ag shame. The Tree Squirrels here are much smaller and are probably a different species, cute though.
Meals are mostly served on the deck but the umbrellas didn't supply a great deal of shade though there were other tables under the trees. Boat rides or inflatables were available and owner Peter Morgan is a birder so does take people out to show them the other two mega-rarities on offer, Cinderella Waxbill and Angola Cave Chat. The first record of the latter only occurred in 2012 but the drought appears to have driven both of them to more salubrious climes. Spent a number of hours chasing the local variety of coucal and though I spotted it a couple of times I couldn't make out it's distinguishing feature the White-brow. The superb Latin name Centropus superciliosis makes it sound extremely upper crust and it was obliging enough to eventually offer a glimpse.
Had found these on another stroll down stream but again only caught glimpses as the seemed to prefer Angola. On leaving Kunene though I came across a flock of them and one was obliging enough to land nearby. Like all Bee-eaters the Madagascar or Olive sports a brilliant plumage. This guy seems to prefer a different diet though.
Second last night was spent at Huab Lodge, the most expensive but because it's "eco" and only has solar power, no aircons. Mild 41 degree heat saw me in the pool for most of my stay. Was here to meet Hartlaub's Spurfowl and catch up with Rockrunner but no such luck.
The surrounding koppies were pretty but for the most part deathly quiet. As the only guest I was once again spoiled with a magnificent fillet dinner but a pre-breakfast stroll didn't turn up much at all.
Ended up at the hot spring for a qucik skinny dip in the 38 degree hot pool but had to leap into the adjacent cold one to cool off.. The lodge caters for 16 guests so not sure what happens when they're full as the hot pool wont take more than three or four adults, time slots perhaps.
