A call out of the blue had me heading for Maroela Camp in Kruger with the Beast in tow to hook up with my cousin Sue and her husband Giles who were going to be there for three nights. They had set up their Bush Lapa trailer next to the fence and while partaking of sundowners the rustling of grass a metre behind my back heralded the arrival of one of several hyenas who regularly patrol the perimeter. Sue, bless her, felt the need to apologize for quite correctly not feeding them and they soon became known as "Sorry my boys". A tad disconcerting when your tucking into a steak and one of these creatures is standing there with pleading eyes like a dog. The point was raised as to whether they would actually come into camp when the gate was open during the day. The answer to which was provided on the morrow when I glanced up from a crossword to see one no more than 5 m. away casually strolling towards me. A strangled squeal to Zondi, the camp manager, had the cavalry on the way armed with a catapult, but unless imbeciles stop giving them food the problem is going to compound and end badly.
While parked at a lookout a grey-headed shrike started calling from a tree above and while it wasn't too obliging I did managed to get it in mid-moan. Afrikaners call them spook voels because of their ghostly call.
I kept hearing what I took to be common quail calling in the grasslands but on a drive a bird flushed, landed on the side of the road then dived back into cover. It's size and deep chestnut colour pointed to Harlequin quail and it was soon confirmed by the call - very handy to have all of them on your phone. They were everywhere but it was impossible to get a sighting as they all remained firmly hidden by thick grass. We did however happen on a female Kurrichane button-quail and also heard several males giving their exotic booming calls. The most obliging female was accompanied by a couple of half-grown chicks but Giles was hogging the window so have had to use this stunning shot of his - ta mate.
I needed another couple of nights to chase the Harlequin but both Marula and Satara were full so had to head back to dear old Nellies. Dropped the van off for repairs two days later and headed back to the park but could only get accommodation at Oliphants which was quite far from the action. I took a back road from near Satara which ran through grassland and heard the little sods on numerous occasions but no sighting. Leaving when the gates opened at six I headed back on the same road where the sun was trying to pierce the cloud cover. Also ran into a bank of fog which was novel and at one stage was standing in short grass with at least four males calling within metres but not a sausage. Yes I know it's illegal but I wouldn't mind donating my body to carnivores.
To add insult to injury I was doing a crossword a short while later and a clue said "Columbine's favourite bird" and I couldn't for the life of me remember who it was - buzzzz Harlequin of course.
Had good views of a female dithering at the side of the road who then disappeared into the grass and emerged with eight chicks in tow - you've never experienced an "Ag shame" moment until you've seen minute bundles of down galloping after mum on matchstick legs.
Raptors are scarce even in the park and brown eagles are always a challenge , particularly after they've been rained on and are busy rearranging the furniture - the size, dark eye and square tail make this a Wahlberg's.
Even the normally immaculate white-winged widow was looking worse for wear, note that in this species it's the boys that never shut their mouths.
Only got back to the Orpen gate after two and didn't particularly feel like schlepping back to Boksburg but there was again no room at the inn so headed for Swadini. The young lady at reception must have felt sorry for the poor old bugger so gave me the Guest Cottage at the normal rate - very swish.
...........and the mango trees trimmed at kudu height. An old bath was used as a water "feature" just below the cottage but this young female was very perturbed by the yellow ball valve.
How about this view to wake up to?
Driving over the Abel Erasmus pass the white syringa's Kirkia acuminata were showing their beautiful yellow and red autumn foliage - not quite as impressive as maples but a good second.
Collected the Beast a week later and as Kruger was still chokkers - it appears every pensioner in RSA takes advantage of their winter specials - I headed for Swadini again and checked in for a month. First thing was a fruitless 300 km round trip to Satara and surrounds to look for the beastly quail but other than a few flashes of flushed birds, no luck. Had to settle for second best.
Swadini is situated at the bottom end of Blyde Canyon and has a huge camp site which is a lot fuller than it's sister resort up at the top. Guess it's all the oldies escaping the highveld winter who couldn't get into Kruger. It is overlooked by this impressive buttress............... .
...........which is currently vying with all the other waterfalls in the area.
The dam has an average depth of 30 m so I was suprised to hear hippos haw-hawing from somewhere near the base of that small koppie on the far side.
Had me hiking gear out the following morning as I'd seen a sign that said waterfall but no mention of distance. Came to rustic bridge and could just make out some deserted buildings in the forest and decided to explore them on the way back. Well the waterfall was nice enough but the buildings appeared to have been built hippies as there was a man sized bower, something that looked akin to Gandalf the Grey and various other rickety things on stilts - all with doors firmly screwed shut. Perhaps they were evicted but the thing paled into insignificance compared to a later discovery.
Had passed several massive trees that I couldn't identify but eventually managed to snag a low hanging twig. I was astounded to discover that they were Mingerhout or Breonadia salcina as the only examples I'd met before were smallish things growing in the riverbeds in Kruger. It never occurred that they could reach 40 m with a trunk two metres in diameter.
On the way to the dam wall and lookout was this.........
..............impossible to resist so I made my way along half a kilometre of boardwalk that was in pristine condition and eventually came to fairy-land.
A monsterous three story building on stilts with a suspension bridge connecting the main construction to a tower complete with spiral staircase. Exactly.................WTF?
A huge upper deck and one even bigger below it but all completely deserted. I assume it was a restaurant or tea-room and must have cost millions - what a pitiful waste. Probably some grand government scheme that was left to people who were not adequately trained to run it.
The view up the gorge is spectacular and in the crease at the centre...........
.............. a fall of at least 100 m hiding shyly in the haze. Once again - ag shame.
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