Port Alfred, etc

Next stop Green Fountain near Port Alfred, all very zooty with each site having it's own ablutions.  Notice how the bike has shrunk and changed colour.  Decided that the Honda was just too nice and it was getting ruined by the coastal air so advertised it on OLX and had two calls at 7 am the next day.  Sold it for cash to Gerrit in George and he had someone come and collect it from Cove Rock, a very large Oom who had obviously had a really good liquid lunch - I did fear that it would not make it.

Not bad hey?  The ablutions not the bike.

Before  leaving East London I visited Game and bought a Chinese Raleigh for R1 300 (not quite in your class Dave Mercer) as it was the last one in stock and having been assembled in house didn't work so well. Never fear out came the tools and although it only has 18 of it's 21 gears it's good enough for me - really need some exercise.  Also visited the museum and while I'm not wild about stuffed animals (because that's exactly what they look like) the really interesting part was the Coelacanth Hall.  Also collect my last UIF payment and on a stroll down to the beach from Cove Rock came across a very indignant little puffadder crawling across the road.  Although he didn't appreciate it, I did see him safely to the other side.  The lump out at sea is Cove Rock - a sign at the beach says "High crime area due to Municipal negligence"

Had lunch down at the marina in Port Alfred one day and noticed some guys messing around with a boat - a sunken one.  Three of them in wet suits were being given some very vocal advice from a varying number of bystanders and it eventually dawned that they were trying to re-float it.  As the camera was were it always is when you need it, I had to be content to just watch though what they did was very clever.  With a rope attached to the pier and looped under the hull, they tied the other end to a plastic 44 gallon oil drum which was then filled with water and tied off just below the surface.  Then out came a very small plastic tube attached to a compressor and air was pumped into the drum and up she popped, well a little way.  Then with the first drum holding the boat up they repeated the process with a second drum, etc, etc.  Took about 3 hours but eventually the gunwales cleared and they were able to bail - which of course they left to the black guy!

Next day I noticed a lot of young ladies assembling an enormous rowing eight, they actually have to transport them in two halves then assemble on site, I reckoned them to be at least 15 m long.  They started practicing starts and turns with the male cox bellowing orders - reminded me of the army.  It's an annual regatta involving those Universities that can afford such costly pieces of kit.  Note no male volunteers to carry the thing either.

Took a trundle through to Bathurst, as in another life I actually bought a piece of land there, R1 800 for 4 acres, if I recall. While nosing around I saw a sign that said Toposcope and not knowing what the heck that was took a drive to the top of a nearby hill and found this pile erected by the 1820 Settlers Foundation.  Though now a bit vandalized, it shows the direction and distance to the farms of all those guys dumped here in 1820 and the view is pretty spectacular.

On the way back I detoured to a private reserve (which I later found is on the market for a mere 20 million) where I discovered a new  mammal species for my life list, a pretty little Grysbok that was so fascinated by something I couldn't see, that I got very close indeed before it dashed off..  Grys is Afrikaans for grey referring to the markings on the flanks.

I also spent a morning atlassing at Riet River Mouth a short distance from the camp, which not only has a lagoon and massive beach but a rather large dunefield which I couldn't resist.  Great fun taking giant strides down precipitous down-wind sides.......

..........and even an oasis with lovely fresh water and a couple of Shelduck.

As Green Fountain was being invaded by some mob I had to leave so moved to Grahamstown, into what appeared to be a very grand municipal caravan park that also boasted individual ablutions - but the cracks were beginning to appear like so many other spots in the town.  The Botannical Garden is sad and as with so many other towns the roads are a mess, but there are still a lot of magical buildings and St Andrews School looks like it was transferred straight from the English countryside.  Spent time around the varsity ogling some very pretty ladies both young and old.  One thing there's no shortage of is churches including St Patrick's here which doesn't seem to know whether it's a castle or church.

Found this at a local shopping centre and am thinking of doing the same to the Beast.

Did a day trip up to the land of JRR Tolkein in Hogsback and although there are foreboding natural forests in the town there didn't appear to be a single indigenous tree.  As it had been raining very heavily the trails were a muddy mess so only stayed for a toasted sarmie.  A view of what I assume is the Hogsback.....

.....and back down into the valley.

 After three nights in Grahamstown, I've moved to Cannon Rocks near Kenton-on-sea about 100 k's from PE.  Only planning on three nights here and was delighted when this little Fiscal Flycatcher welcomed me to the campsite.  They are having problems with newly installed ablution block so once again have a private suite in one of the cottages.

Cove Rock

Spent another week at Ocean View and a couple more visits to The Shed proved how friendly the locals are.  Alan runs a hardware store in Morgan Bay and maintains that his pension pays for one beer and the store pays for the rest.  Fed up with potholes some of the local businessmen started a fund and used it to at least fill some of the craters but were told very sternly by the mayor that they couldn't do that anymore as they were taking jobs away from disadvantaged people - only in SA. Had been having problems with a whingeing back and asked if there was a local physio and was promptly dragged over to a table and introduced to Norma who said come by at 9:30 tomorrow.  Talking while she pulverised my back, it turned out we're both from Bulawayo and her father ran a pharmacy there and I used to sell to him when I worked as a drug-peddlar for CAPS.  We were also at Wits around the same time - small world.

During my stay the wind was almost constant but swung 180 degrees at the drop of a hat.  I guess driving past this on my way there should have given me a heads up.

I was offered a campsite for R75 a night or this rather unusual "cottage" for R100.  It consisted of two rondavels with a central bathroom and as Bruce, the manager, put it the boss lost his mind and built a lounge from the roof down!  It has yet to be completed but the cows enjoyed the shelter when it rained.

Nice to live somewhere other than the van for a while but still used the Beast as a lounge and set up this very sophisticated dish arrangement as a building was blocking the signal from my normal mount on the jockey wheel.  A pick handle, a tie down, a large brick, a log and a couple of tent pegs - eat your heart out McGyver.

Coming back from Kei Mouth one day suddenly noticed these stunning erythrinas which appear to have flowered overnight - thought it might make a heck of a puzzle.

As there had been rain, the 8 k's of dirt back to the main road turned the bakkie brown so on a shopping trip to Bonza Bay I spotted a car wash and paid R65 for a wash and go - exorbitant as the previous highest was R40.  Unfortunately while I was in town the clouds dumped another 30 mm on the road -guess what colour the bakkie was when I got home.  I'd been past this building a few times and muttered about the wasteful government spending, what the heck do they need all those loos for?  Then I noticed the sign, "Amatola Sanitation Dept.", I imagine this is the shit-house showroom, pick your privvy.

The day dawned when I had to leave and of course the weather decided to do the dirty and down came the rain for most of the night.  I had deliberately stayed an extra two nights to ensure that Bruce's helpers were on hand if the Beast decided not to move.  When I came to hitch, the back wheel of the bakkie was in a hole and the front against a rock.  I used the movers to roll her forward a bit, hitched, engaged the diff lock and let rip.  Almost made 10 m before we came to a halt slipping wildly.  Went in search of help and of course only one of three labourers had pitched, so had a go with two pushers but the back wheels just dug in.  Unhitch again, engage movers and with three of us busting a gut we got her onto the level - whew.

The 70 k's to Cove Rock were a doddle even though they involved going through the city centre but it was all worthwhile for this view, one side..........

 

...and the other.  The birdlife here is amazing, five heron, three kingfisher and three duck species plus about 50 others so far.  Was serenaded by a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls last night which took me straight back to 28 B.

Have often heard of the Amatola Mountains but never been so as they were just up the road near Stutterheim, I booked into the Manderson Hotel for a couple of nights which included the luxury of not having to feed myself.  First time ever that I've been outnumbered 50 to 1 by black guests - appears surrounding municipalities are very generous when it comes to conferences.  Saw the sunrise for the first time in a while.....

 .....then toddled off to do some atlassing in the nearby Khologha Forest, mainly in search of Cape Parrots.  Not a squawk anywhere but lots of other goodies along the board-walk....

 ....and forest trails.  Some fair sized yellow-woods still grace this patch, you may spot my back pack on the creeper next to the tree to give it some scale.

And of  lots of streams of DRINKABLE water and Mountain Wagtails, which refused to oblige me with a pic.

You just can't keep a good tree down.

About 3 k's in I glimpsed movement on a rock and there sat one of my favourites, a White-starred Robin who was totally unconcerned with my presence and though I tried I just could not get the camera to focus on him (no it's not my pic), so I just sat and watched.  Next in view a Bush Blackcap, then Olive Woodpecker and finally a Chorister - magic.

On the way back to the hotel I bumped into a a pair of these beauties, which, though I've heard them regularly, was the first time I'd seen them on this trip - Red-necked Spurfowl and it IS my pic.

While lying in bed the other morning doing the lazy man's birding (listening) a thought popped into my head which is probably a quote from someone but nevertheless I like it - I now feel that I am living the dream rather than dreaming the life, and though it's lonely it is also fun.

Ocean View

Made it, but it wasn't fun.  Left Southbroom on the 4th August and made it to Port St Johns, no sweat apart from the last 1.5 k's which were typical Transkei. Pulled in at Cremorne where I'd stayed once before with Jo. We returned from a drive to find the tent flattened by the wind and all the poles bent but they were good enough to let us use one of their fishermen's cottages.  This time they gave me the "best" site and it was impressive as you can see.

Right on the bank of the Mzimvubu River with it's own braai and deck - very spoiled.

This view towards the sea...........

.....................and this upriver.

So I was feeling pretty good when I set out the next day, until I hit the first stop/go.  I had tried to find out about the road from Port St Johns to Mthatha but could only get directions not conditions - me and computers.  Two hours to do 70 k's and some of the most appalling deviations ever, then a full on traffic jam going into the metropolis, by the time I was the hell out of there I was gently steaming.  I arrived at Ocean View and was greeted by chaos, Eskom had just pitched, shut off the electricity and sealed the box as the bill hadn't been paid and Bruce was ready to resign.  The "seal" was just tape so he cut it off and switched the power back on then proceeded to have a mighty row with the boss.  I sloped off to the cottage and was trying to figure out where to put the van when I realised I was going down-hill on kikuyu - damn.  Tried to reverse to no avail, used the diff lock, no dice and no room to turn. So decided to heck with it let's have a snooze and I'll see if I can rustle up some help later.  Long story short I eventually told them I'd go into East London and hire a 4x4 in the morning.  Unhitched and just for a laugh tried the "movers" which actually did shift the Beast a little way but then the wheels started slipping but I was sure that with a bit of muscle we might manage, so next morning Bruce and his two assistants rolled up and after much huffing and puffing got her back on levelish ground.  So now I'm sleeping and eating in the cottage but as there are no cupboards all my clothes remain in the van - nice change though. 

On my last visit I had a braai dinner at a place called the Shed and on Friday trundled down and met quite a few of the guys that I'd met the last time - including the owner Brent.  R60 for a 300 g steak, with salads and vetkoek - can't complain. When I sat down and started tackling the steak with an ordinary knife one wag shouted to Brent that I must have a lot of faith in his meat.

Two other retirees, Peter and Alan started regaling me with bowling stories and said I really ought to come along and have a game - there are two clubs, one in Kei Mouth and the other in Morgan Bay so they play 4 times a week.  I agreed to go the next day but as I had a dose of the squirts didn't fancy the idea of bending down as I might deliver something more than a bowl.  I did watch for an hour but am not too sure if it's for me, the postures that some of them get into would keep me in hysterics.

As Trennery's Hotel is only 17 k's from Kei Mouth, I thought a couple of nights there might be fun so booked. To get there requires an interesting trip.......

.....and of course I was immediately accosted by some of the local ladies who together with luggage must have added half a ton.  So the Transkei taxi trundled off and virtually every time someone got off someone else would climb on.  Finally arrived at the hotel and was very pleasantly surprised.

Kept on getting lost in the bed.

Not as beautiful as some parts of the wild coast.

But a huge lagoon and a long winding gorge made this an ideal option, blasted thing had drainage holes that didn't drain anything but let gallons of water in and it was distinctly chilly around the nether regions.

Slowly wended my way back with the inevitable passenger and took this pic of the Kei Mouth coming down the hill back to the ferry.  Arriving at the cottage I went to put something in the fridge only to be met by the most disgusting smell and to my horror saw it was off.  I had tried to tell the maid NOT to switch it off and even showed her the contents of the freezer but I guess wires got crossed as she doesn't speak a word of English.  Opening the freezer I found it to be empty and wondered where she had put the contents.  Questioning her later I only got blank looks and finally ascertained that she had gaily taken about R300 worth of meat and then switched it off. - guess who's not getting a tip.

Where did that month go?

So the next move is about on me as I leave here on Tuesday bound for Port St Johns.  Yes I did say I was going around but I'll get to that later - this change of mind has me doing an overnight there then on to Kei Mouth the next day.  This will avoid a large part of the dreaded N2 and with the stop will see me doing two hops of just over 200 km which shouldn't be too arduous.

Believe it or not we have had some rather foul weather with the the temp dropping to around 14C - don't mock I'm a South Coaster now.  Also lots of rain which made TV viewing tricky as the din on the van roof drowned the sound.  So as I could not use my "outside" cooking facility - a two plate electric goody on a table - I had to cook in the microwave.  I decided that some bacon/cheese wors was just the thing and dumped in a coil of the stuff and hit play.  When I opened the door I thought a cobra was striking as this thing had swollen and unwound and sprayed fat everywhere - guess I shoulda stuck a few holes in it.  The van still has a vague wors odour about it in spite of copious cleaning of the micro.

I decided about 3 weeks ago to pop up to Lake Eland to try and locate a Swamp Nightjar I had found there on a previous trip as it would look good on an Atlas list so I stayed the one night in Oribi Gorge and planned to go on to Lake Eland the next day.  There I bumped into a couple who I had last seen in Umdoni Forest in Pennington.  They were also doing a bird list and when I asked if they were Atlassers they said they were officially doing a survey of coastal forests as a research project and Atlassing on the side.  I said "Shit job" and they said "Someone's got to do it".  He told me that there some terrible weather on the way and as he said it the rain started and as it was still bucketing down the next day I decided to postpone Lake Eland.

A week later I wanted to check out the campsite that Jo and I once stayed in near Kokstad so decided to do a combined trip.  I booked into a lovely lakeside (more like damside) cottage and went up to an elevated picnic site to watch the sunset.

 When I returned this little fellow (a Bushbuck) was not more than 5 m from the balcony.

The following morning I left early to get down to some serious Atlassing and stopped several times to take pics, it really is a very beautiful place.  Large sections had been burnt and the Fire lilies were out in force.

At another picnic site these guys were eating rocks, I have no idea why but the crunching that was going on sounded like breaking teeth - and yes they were rocks as I saw them bending down and selecting them, must need minerals I guess. Lovely contrast of colour though.

From here I went down to the river to look for the elusive finfoot and when I left the bakkie to walk along the river I did not take the keys.  Big mistake as I must have knocked the locking button getting out as when I returned I couldn't get back in.  I had nothing with me, not even my penknife and was not looking forward to the 12 k hike back to the camp when I decided to check if I could jiggle the lock on the sliding back window.  Looking through the drivers window I noticed that the lock on the other side was open - HUGE relief.

This place also has the longest zip line in Africa which Sally and I tried when she was here last year, if I remember correctly there are 14 sections the longest being 800 m straight across this gorge but a little further along..

 The little concrete blob with a roof on to the left of the dam is the start of the big one.

 Right at the top end of the reserve is the Oribi Sanctuary and though I'd been many times I had yet to spot one but this time most of the area had been burnt and voila......

The N2 to Kokstad was horrendous with long convoys of trucks and an almost continuous ascent that made overtaking impossible and though the campsite was still lovely I decided that this was not the way to go.  I stayed at a place called Stoneybrook and had a pub dinner with a couple of reps and a very chatty barmaid and when I arrived back at the van noticed I had left my clipboard behind and though the crosswords weren't particularly important, the UIF forms were, so had to go all the way back next day.  Thought umemployment was only paid for six months but have now found that it's eight - roll on.

The search for the next stop

Decided that there was nowhere in the old Transkei that a) I could get the beast to and b) that I really wanted to go, so settledon Kei Mouth and Morgan Bay.  A recce was required so wanting to treat myself I booked for an overnight in Mazeppa Bay Hotel and a cottage at a place called Ocean View near Kei Mouth.  I left here at 09h30 and arrived in Mazeppa, which is approximately 400 k,s away at 18h30 - 9 freaking hours later.

First mistake was going through Bizana as it is basically limited to 60 and 80 kph sections all the way -so much of people.  Second mistake was heading for the N2 and not direct to Mthatha via Port St Johns as you end up going backwards and have to fight your way through all the grotty little towns that litter the route.  It took 3 hours to get to Mout Ayliffe where I stopped for half an hour for lunch and admired this view across the road.

Thereafter things just went downhill.  It took at least an hour to get from one side of Mthatha to the other and boy if SA ever needs an enema thats where they'll start.  The pavements in all those towns are so packed with traders that everyone walks in the road, and of course you just park wherever and to hell with the traffic.  The instructions I had for the hotel said there was a marked turn-off 8 k's from Butterworth, so I get there - no sign, turn round and all the way back to Dutywa - no sign.  Finally found someone who had even heard of Mazeppa, lots of detailed instructions and I still managed to miss it - if it was there at all.  5 k's from Butterworth I hit a backup from the only traffic light in town and we creep down the hill -which gives me time to check a map and I see you can get there through Kentani but I pull into a garage to check.  The Indian fellow goes into excruciating detail and says I must turn left at the Engen garage in Kentani - I missed the garage, only had one pump.  Came to the end of town turned round found the garage but the road looks like it heads straight into the "suburbs".  Ask and once again get explicit details, left at Y, right at T, down Cat's Pass and now it's getting dark.  That all went superbly till the bottom of the pass where there is another Y - they just don't seem to do signs down there.  The left fork has just been made and looks like a rugby field, I take the right but decide to ask and stop a passing bakkie no this is the right road just follow it to the end - and can you give my mate a lift, sure if he's willing to get on the back all my stuff's in front.  An hour later I drop him off, how far?  Two k's he assures me, 4 k's later I feel like I trapped in Hotel California and the nightmare is never going to stop - but it finally does - and I'm the only guest.  

Several stiff shots later i have a splendid solitary meal, then join the only other person in the massive dining room, the receptionist a very pleasant Rhodesian lady who has only been there a few days.  By 8pm I'm out of it and off to bed - sans receptionist unfortunately - but all is forgiven in the morning when I awaken to this.....

For hhat earthly reason do cows visit the beach?  There's also a little island dotted with fishermen, none of whom are Xhosa as they are apparently so scared of the sea they won't go near it, hence the "wild" in Wild Coast.

an

Beautiful spot but stay a week or two.  The rest of the journey was a doddle and when I met Bruce, a self confessed recovering alcoholic chef turned farmer my mind was made up pretty quickly as the campsite on the farm was unlikely to have any guests for the duration and my exercise will be in the form of helping him clear aliens.  He manages the place which belonged to a German couple and when the husband died the workers conned the old duck that they were seeing to everything but of course it all just gradually went to hell in a hand-basket.  One thing that was now very clear was that there was no way in hell that I was coming down the N2 so I booked an overnight in a delightful stone and thatch cottage on a farm called The Guardians, named after this feature.

This enabled me to check the R56 through the Eastern Cape highlands which apart from a few potholes is stiil in good nick and a far preferable option.  Only thing is I'm going to need a heater and long-johns.  All sorts of reasons have made me stay here another month which will give me plenty of time to plan the route.

Have spent some time in Mpenjati Reserve which is not only a delight but close and of course there is another attraction..........

Have only encountered one other dirty old man and as there are no nets and no lifesavers, there doesn't seem to be a huge rush.  But it is a beautiful spot.